A Mzungu in Africa

My life in St Judes School,Tanzania from January 2006

Sunday, March 05, 2006

Happy Clappy Chook Church

Tanzania seems to be quite a religious country. I have no idea about the demographical breakdown of religions but from my knowledge, the common religions are Muslim and Christianity. Certainly in Arusha, there are lots of Christian churches.

On a Sunday, we normally go to a local Catholic church which has an English service at 9.15am. Sometimes we arrive as the previous service is ending, which is in Swahili. It’s amazing to see the difference between those who go to the Swahili service and those who come for the English one. At the English service, there is always real mixture of locals and Mzungus (white people), mostly missionaries working in the area.

The locals who go to the English service tend to be fairly wealthy, possibly because they speak English. Certainly, there is no question about it, English is the language of commercial success, which is why it is so important for children to learn it, if they are to get a good job.

The last couple of Sundays we haven’t been going to that church as Gemma is away, so we have walked to a local church, where the ceremony is in Ki-Swahili. It’s a tiny church at the top of a hill in a local village surrounded by beautiful countryside. When we went for the first time, we were hoping for a “happy clappy” African-style service. And although it’s not quite Sister Act, it’s certainly an inspiring church service. The choir consists of around 30 adults and five children. By far, my favourite are the children. While the adults sway gently, though visibly, as they sing, the children’s energy and enthusiasm is fascinating and adorable. One particular child sways rhymtically, singing soulfully, and clapping energetically. So even though we had no idea what was going on for most of the ceremony, as it was in Swahili, it was excellent!

The church, though small, is really lovely. It’s built using as an umbrella-type structure. There’s a pole in the middle of the church (which presumably is very strong). Near the top of the pole are a series of arms which extend outwards in every direction, exactly in the same fashion as an umbrella. The roof is supported by these arms.

It’s pretty cool to notice a negro Jesus on the cross, up on the alter. Though I did wonder why there are fourteen stations of the cross... Now, how to ask someone the question. My numbers are still a bit dodgy so I’ll have to work on that one!

This week, we went back for some more African inspiration. Again, it was lovely. At the end of the service, a group of men carried up some crates of eggs and a live chicken! A local woman explained to us, in excellent English, that they were going to do an auction to raise money to pay back a loan they had taken out, to build a rectory and office on the church grounds. Bidding for the chook stopped at pitiful 7,000 schillings (around US$7) so although we didn’t have much money on us, we ended up bidding 10,000. And sure enough, we were the proud owners of a live chicken! I was presented with it, in the church, to cheers from the rest of the congregation. I must have looked a sight, holding a squirming chicken. Afterwards, having no use for a chook, I gave it to a lady who was going to give it to a poor local family. Whether or not that actually reached that family is anyone’s guess but I figure that most people around here are poor, so almost anyone is deserving of it! I was pretty happy I didn’t have to carry it home!

Although unorthodox and very surprising, it was a lovely morning. Two young boys, who had also been to church, passed us on the way home and asked where the chook was. Although both boys weren't wearing expensive clothes, they were both were immaculately clean and were so friendly. When we explained we had given it to a needy family, the told us that God would repay us many times over. A lovely sentiment and so well expressed.

Now, my prayer is that Bird Flu hasn’t reached Tanzania yet!

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